Blessed Serendipity
The Best Place to Live in Ireland!
But more about that later.............
Sometimes you just get lucky, really lucky. After our first trip to
Ireland in 2007, I wasn't sure we'd come back. It had rained for twenty out of
twenty-one days, we spent much of our time lost (pre-GPS), and I never seemed
to capture that perfect photograph that I so hungered after. And frankly, these
trips require substantial economies in both spending and vacation time
throughout the rest of the year.
So, in fact, we let two years pass before our return in
2009. But Candee and I were just so drawn to the feel of the land, the smell of
the air, the landscapes, the seascapes, the authenticity of the food, and the
spirit of those we met, that we decided to return. Candee made a great choice
in deciding to rent a cottage in the West (tiny Cleggan in westernmost Co
Galway). Perhaps a bit remote for our
purposes that year, but beautiful nonetheless. Since Candee's mom, and friends
Paul and Carol and their daughter Stacy, had come along with us that year, we
re-visited many attractions from our first trip - mostly in the East, requiring
long trips back and forth in our van. But as we traveled, we passed through
Westport in Co Mayo - for lunch one day and dinner another. We all liked the
town, but it was Paul who said that he could "settle down here for a
while." He thought it would be quite pleasant to sit at an outdoor cafe,
have a tea or a Guinness, and watch life pass by.
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| Approaching the summit of Croagh Patrick |
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| The Old Mill |
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| The Carrowbeg River in the center of Westport |
As interesting as the music was that night, the event of note was Candee “picking up” Padraic Duffy in the pub. Well, at least that’s Padraic’s version of the story. The true story was that Marion asked if she could hang her purse on the back of Candee’s chair, away from the door. Conversation ensued, the Duffys found out I was a golfer and invited me to their club, we went to their house for dinner, took daytrips that only a native would know about – in short, did all the things you dream about when you go to an unfamiliar and interesting place.
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| Candee, Padraic, and Marion beside Clew Bay, Clare Island a faint presence in the distance |
We had a great time in 2010 and planned on returning the
following summer. We just seemed to have a chemistry- similar senses of humor, irreverence, mischief, world view, etc. We corresponded during
the ensuing year, feverishly at first then more sporadically as the year progressed. But when we returned, we were blessed with
that familiar and comfortable feeling you have when you get together with dear old
friends – it seems like you’ve never been apart. We were also blessed to have secured a
four-week-long period of time away from work.
We put it to great use and were almost inseparable during our 2011 visit
- with only the exception of a weekend after Marion’s aunt died and they left
town to attend her funeral. Candee and I
amused ourselves by re-visiting some favorite places. When the Duffys returned, Padraic advised us
(use your best Irish accent here, please) – “You’ve developed a bit of a
reputation in the town. People are
saying that they’ve seen the Duffys’ Yanks about.” How cool is that.
In addition to the extraordinarily hospitable welcome of the
Duffys, the people at the adjacent Clew Bay Hotel seem to have “adopted”
us as well. In fact, our apartment is
owned by the nice young couple, Maria Ruddy and Darren Madden, who also own the
hotel. From Darren and Maria, to their
lovely children Conor and Niamh, and extending to the hotel’s staff – Mary, Orla,
Karen, Pawel, Brian – we couldn’t possibly feel more “very welcomed” when we
return again to begin our holidays. Last year, the Ruddy/Maddens invited us to their house for dinner. It was a lovely night and we discussed many issues and so enjoyed a different perspective - a singularly Irish perspective - on matters of the day, from the financial meltdown, to the educational system, to child rearing, to discussions on the spirit and character of Ireland and its people.
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| Conor, Maria, and Candee in front of the Clew Bay |
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| Sweet and lovely Niamh at the Tourmakeady Agricultural Fair (picture from the front page of the Mayo News!) |
So why do we like all these people so much. Well, for one thing, they’re just plain
interesting. When Padraic got his lump
sum payout upon retirement – the “gratuity” – he bought an apartment in Krakow,
Poland. Go figure. When Pawel looked for more adventure, he left
Poland and flew to Dublin with the intent to “get on a train, take it to the
end of the line, and see what life presents.”
Seven years later he shares the second-in-command spot at the Clew Bay
Hotel, a trusted and respected member of the Westport community. And a very talented photographer (www.shutterstills.com). Mary (Máire in Irish, thank you) Sheridan of the Clew Bay is a dedicated hill
walker and mountain climber. She leads
people up Croagh Patrick and most all the mountains around Co Mayo and Co Galway. She also participates in mountain
rescues. Her pictures from the summits
are just breathtaking. When she wanted a
new challenge, she signed up for a climb up Mount Kilimanjaro in
Tanzania, 19,341 feet above sea level. For perspective, we struggled to climb Croagh
Patrick, a mere 2,507 feet. Her
eight-day trek, which took her to her limits physically and emotionally,
culminated as the group mounted the summit at sunrise. Everyone in the group simply wept in response
to the beauty of the mountain and the powerful spiritual bond of their shared
experience. What a treat to know these people and hear their stories.
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| James Street, "our" street, in Westport |
The people we've met also seem to have an innate sense of fairplay and generosity. When people from Eastern Europe (primarily Poland and Romania) flooded the country during the Tiger days, they were accepted and given a warm welcome (with some exceptions, no doubt). The people we spoke with compared this "invasion" with memories of times in Ireland past. One person told us that it was like their own bad times, when the Irish had to go abroad to find a way to survive. The Poles were honest and hard working and were sending their money home - just like the Irish had done. And during this recent collapse, no one seems to be looking around to demonize these "others" as part of the problem. Again, there seems to be an absence of the fine art of scapegoating which has so dominated thought and speech in the American public square.
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| At the Octagon, the center of Westport town |
No haters, no blamers, no one looking to place the full responsibility of any and all difficulty at the feet of someone else. Sure, they’ve had their crooks and malefactors – “Seanie Fitz,” the notorious bankster whose fraudulent activity brought the AngloIrish Bank to ruin; Brian Cowen, the Taoiseach or Prime Minister, who betrayed his countrymen by obligating them for bank debt in what seems to have been a series of misjudgments fueled by alcohol and venality. Nevertheless, the Irish have assumed the mantle of austerity with grace and fortitude. And, perhaps, they are helped by the fact that their system of justice is investigating and bringing charges against some of these men. For goodness sake, they put their scoundrels in jail? What a refreshing change, huh?
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| Bridge Street, Westport town - great shopping! And, Matt Malloy's Pub!!! |
I think that Ireland's relatively modest
size, both in land mass and population, gives the Irish a sense that they can
still influence events. That there's still a place for them in civic affairs -
that one voice can be heard. The
Republic of Ireland (which would exclude the British colony of Northern
Ireland) has a population of only 4.6 million people - spread out over an area the size of the
State of Indiana. It's 174 miles at its
widest point and 302 miles from north to south. There's still great commonality
of experience and I don't perceive great cultural differences from north to
south or from east to west. Sure there's urban vs. rural, young vs. old, rich
vs. poor, but these divisions somehow don't seem as important. And sports are a
great nationwide shared passion. Bitter rivalries between counties and
provinces, but unifying in a common quest for pride and victory. Actually,
sports have always played a particular and important role in Irish culture.
When the British subjugated the Irish and tried to destroy the language and
culture, the Gaelic Athletic Association was the prime conduit of communication
throughout the country – the only way people could freely travel and associate.
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| Doo Lough - the scene of a needless, terrible tragedy during The Great Hunger |
And, Candee believes, one cannot overestimate the long term effect of The Great Hunger – the potato famine of
1845 – 1849 - only one, but perhaps the worst, of many famines in Ireland. During this period, food was still sent out of
Ireland to international markets – grains, livestock, etc. Callous British government policies allowed
the Irish to starve. The potato blight
struck Europe and America, but people were given alternate foods and were not
subject to famine. We're not sociologists or experts on the
Irish psyche, but we believe that these famines have created a sense of civic
responsibility that says that people will never again be left to fend for
themselves in the face of a cruel and uncaring government. The Irish seem to be committed to a noble
sense of common cause. And this is
reflected in their overwhelming generosity to foreign missions – both financially
and in terms of providing volunteers to ameliorate suffering throughout the
world.
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| an Taoiseach Enda Kenny |
And a special treat, an Taoiseach Enda Kenny
(Cowen’s replacement), would be part of the dedication. Kenny arrived and was greeted by the local children's bagpiper group (video clip below). And what a refreshing difference
- his security is absolutely minimal.
Perhaps two or three plainclothesmen on obvious low alert (if alert at
all, really) standing off to the side.
He freely mixed with the crowd, knew many of the people (heck, he’s just
from up the road in Castlebar), and genuinely seemed to thrive in the crush of
the moderate-sized crowd. He’s the head
of the government, its highest elected official, responsible for representing
the country on the continent and internationally, and as accessible as your
average town councilman. Another
difference, another contrast with us, where you can’t go to the movies or to
your Sikh temple without fearing for your life.
Wouldn’t it be nice. An
atmosphere like this is something that Candee and I deeply value.
But, I guess the best thing about the day was feeling a part of things. Going to the Maddens for dinner last year was lovely. A gracious gesture to some seemingly welcome visitors - guests. Being invited to this simple community event felt different. It wasn't bringing out the good dishes and the best silverware. It was just participating in an ordinary way in the life of the community - like family and friends.
And the final piece of blessed serendipity. Westport was selected as the "The Irish Times Best Place to Live in Ireland" while we were there. How crazy that we have been the oh-so-fortunate beneficiaries of so many happy coincidences. It wasn't a silly "text your vote to" or "call 1-800-xxx-xxxx/you can vote as many times as you like" kind of contest. The Irish Times, the most respected newspaper in Ireland, solicited nominations in this first-ever competition. Hundreds of villages, towns, and cities (563 to be exact) had people write glowing recommendations. These were winnowed to the top dozen or so and the Times sent teams out to interview people about what made their towns special. They interviewed community leaders, local residents, and visitors. They surveyed arts and cultural activities, economic activity, and community spirit. They assessed physical beauty, access to outdoor activity, restaurants and pubs.
Quotes from The Mayo News coverage: "Speaking exclusively to The Mayo News, after he had officiated at the opening of Westport's Gaelscoil na Cruaiche, Taoiseach Kenny said, 'This win for Westport is wonderful and well-deserved. It is an example of an outstanding level of cooperation and association of different groups in Westport. Westport is an example to every town in Ireland.'" Continuing in the same article "And in his inimitable style, Town Councillor Christy Hyland encapsulated that winning je ne sais quoi: 'It is the spirit, the heart and the commitment from all the people. As I have said before, it is the great and unrivalled spirit of volunteerism of the community and the cooperation between many organizations and businesses that ensures Westport wins one award after another. It is onwards and upwards now for the town.'" Hey, come on, when's the last time your newspaper wrote "je ne sais quoi" and expected its readers to understand? Dictionary definition - A quality or attribute that is difficult to describe or express. Literal French translation - "I know not what." Remember this is in the county newspaper, not The Irish Times. C'mon American education system, c'mon!!!
Two more quotes: From John O'Callaghan who nominated Westport. He was born and reared in the town - "'Westport has it all. Lovely people, lots to do, excellent employment, fantastic amenities, gorgeous scenery, a thriving arts and cultural scene, great sports and leisure facilities, a palpable community spirit, a choice of good restaurants, fine schools, a caring social services centre, an active retirement group, flourishing overseas partnerships, and more.'"
And from Conor Goodman, Irish Times Features Editor, and Chairman of the Judging Panel, "Westport is a beautiful place, well-kept and pleasant to visit, but those aren't the reasons it won. The judges chose Westport because it is a community of people working together to make the best of the town's many advantages. It has a sustainable transport network, and in a town of just a few thousand there are almost 100 voluntary (volunteer) groups and organizations at work. The residents of Westport love where they live. and with good reason."
As Padraic said when we spoke on the phone soon after we returned to the states. "I must admit, we're a bit chuffed at being chosen best place to live". I think you can see that Candee and I are proud of Westport as well. And more than thankful about our bit of "blessed serendipity."
Sometimes you just get lucky. Really, really lucky.